Many thanks to the fine folks at Harmony Estate for arranging the details of my visit.
Northern Michigan is a special place. With waterfront communities like Charlevoix and Petoskey, there is no shortage of outdoor activities any season of the year. There’s skiing, fall color trails, summer water sports and spring wine months. Outside of Mackinac Island, however, Traverse City holds the most prestige and popularity when it comes to Northern Michigan destinations. With more demanding day careers, traffic, and the precious resource of time, sometimes the buzz of even a resort city isn’t quite where you want to be on a vacation. Luckily, the Traverse City area encompasses far more than Traverse City. In fact, Leelanau County Michigan is one of the most serene and majestic areas you may have overlooked.
Tour a Regenerative Working Vineyard and Orchard
Driving through the Leelanau Peninsula is one of the most unique experiences in the Midwest. This is America’s fruit belt, with one of the most highly biodiverse soil systems in the world. Rolling hills of apple, cherry, and peach orchards, blueberry and strawberry fields and vineyards as far as the eye can see is wildly different than the corn and soybeans that represent the American Midwest. Rather than just driving through this vegetal mecca, you can experience a tour of one of the leading sustainable properties in the area.
North Farm, a 185-acre homestead with vineyards for Bel Lago, Dune Bird, and French Valley wineries, is a special place. Home to a herd of Highland cows, flock of chickens, and drove of pigs, there is much to see beyond just the land. A tour will take you by foot and by recreational vehicle through the foraging forest, fishing pond and rows of vines. Up the hills and in the valleys, the sense of peace and serenity that accompanies a trip into the vineyards is unmatched. Of course you’ll get to see the animals, and if you bring your kids, there is a family friendly scavenger hunt that my kids absolutely loved.
Explore Northport in Leelanau County Michigan
The Northernmost tip of the Leelanau Peninsula is the area of Northport. The east side is where “downtown” Northport is, with the bulk of commercial businesses. Here there are eclectic shops, bars and restaurants, as well as more necessity-based businesses like a a grocery store and post office. A pizza dinner at Faro is a can’t miss, although there can be a wait. Fermented dough and locally sourced, fresh ingredients make for a meal that would be equally delectable in Chicago as it is in the farthest flung harbor town of Northern Michigan. Tourist shop Porcupine Cabin is fun for gifts, and head to the marina to see the train car converted home of a local artist.
Don’t Forget Leelanau State Park and Grand Traverse Lighthouse
At the very tip, you’ll find the Grand Traverse lighthouse and Leelanau State Park. Locals explain if you trek far enough, there is an array of rock art including suspended rocks, stacked sculptures and even a dragon. After a hike, the friendly confines of Dune Bird Winery is a welcome stop. Part coffee shop, part winery, there are small bites and a playground to bring the kids should you want to kick your feet up for a while.
Pro Tip: Order a glass of the award winning Dry Riesling from Dune Bird. Even if you think you’re not a Riesling person, you’re going to understand why this one was a recent TEXSOM winner.
Pinch Me Moment: Rent a Bike and Ride the Leelanau County TART Trail
The Leelanau Trail of the Traverse Area Recreational Trails(TART) is easily the most universally enjoyable activity .If you don’t have a bike of your own, there are multiple locations in Suttons Bay to pick up helmets and a rental bike or e-bike from Grand Traverse Bike Tours.
A guided tour through specific wineries can help ease the transition from paved trail to road biking. If you aren’t a drinker, or are just comfortable navigating between the edge of a country road and a dedicated bike trail, self-guided tours are also reasonably priced. When we visited in early May, the weather was about 60 degrees and sunny, ideal for biking. Riding through the vineyards and orchards felt like such a blessing, I didn’t realize I was experiencing a pinch-me/bucket list moment until later. To have my kids and my mom and brother with me at the same time was so special.
Every year, the first two weeks of May are Traverse City Uncorked/Michigan Wine Week. There were numerous specials and a winery passport that made exploring different wineries extremely easy. It’s also before the summer crowds come, so it was perfect for our family. I was a little nervous having my kids on the roads vs the trail, so we only stopped at Shady Lane Cellars because it allowed for the least amount of time off the trail.
Pro Tip: We took the e-bike tour as the ages of our group went from 72 down to 2 years old. Call ahead and request a buggy attachment for the kids. Don’t feel rushed to return the bike within the hours of operation of the business. They allow for after hours bike return and can lock up the bike without worry.
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore
If you or your kids need a good nights sleep, plan on spending a day traversing the dunes of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. This incredible geological area of steep sand dunes 450 feet above Lake Michigan make for incredible views. While this destination is synonymous with Traverse City, it’s technically in Leelanau County.
Plan to buy ticketed access to the park ahead of time. Right now, it’s $25/car and covers everyone in your vehicle. Come early or stay late to avoid the bulk of summertime (or anytime) crowds. This is also a Dark Sky park, meaning some of the most beautiful night skies can be seen from this area of Michigan. The park is pet friendly, but you’ll want to check on the official website for areas that are off limits or for daily updates.
Fishing Tour in Leelanau County
Minnesota may be the land of 10,000 lakes, but Northern Michigan has some of the most beautiful lakes in the country. Of course there is Lake Michigan, but smaller lakes like Lake Leelanau, Kehl Lake, Mud Lake, Glen Lake and Bass Lake are all great for freshwater fishing. Fishing requires permits in this area of Michigan, so planning a trip with a local outfitter is the best way to go about it.
U-Pick Flowers and Fruit
Visiting the most biodiverse agricultural area of the United States means it’s a great idea to try local produce that is in season. That’s right, Leelanau County Michigan is that special! Forage for morel mushrooms and wild leeks in the spring, explore U Pick apples, flowers, cherries, strawberries, and blueberries in the summer and fall. Remember, this is the cherry capital of the world so you can attend the Cherry Festival to experience the most of what the area has to offer.
Hallstedt Homestead Cherries is highly recommended for u-pick cherries. Omena Cut Flowers will take your breath away with the diversity of blooms. Keep in mind, if you have an allergy to bees or wasps, it may be best to skip U-Pick Options and opt for a more controlled picnic area.
Explore the Leelanau Wineries
Whether you are a well seasoned wine snob or still looking for a wine you like, you’ll feel welcome at the wineries of Leelanau County. Touring the wineries of this region should feel less produced and a bit more flexible when compared to nearby neighbor and AVA Old Mission. Don’t take this to be disparaging of Old Mission. They also make fantastic wines, but the two peninsulas of Northwestern Michigan are simply different.
While all the Leelanau wineries are considered family friendly, some are particularly kid friendly to the point of making children feel welcomed. Dune Bird in Northport and French Valley in Cedar both have large playground structures that kids and parents love. Most of the other tasting rooms have inviting outdoor space with things like bocce or cornhole, and some have board games or coloring books if you don’t want to bring your own. I happily spent almost a full day at Bel Lago. With over 60 styles of wine, a live music stage, and sweeping views of Lake Leelanau, it was easy to kick back for a few hours.
If you are without kids, be responsible and smart and book a tour! There are a number of tours you can book through Get Your Guide, Trip Advisor, or elsewhere!
And what of the wine in Leelanau County? With an incredibly diverse terrain, these wines are complex and terroir driven. I’m working through a series on YouTube this summer of the differences of same variety grapes from Michigan vs. more well known wine destination. Think Chardonnay from France vs. Chardonnay from the Leelanau Peninsula. Check back weekly to see more comparison videos.
Explore Fishtown
Coming from Chicagoland, even with Lake Michigan right on our doorsteps, commercial fishing is not something that Illinoisians are exposed to. This makes the allure and uniqueness of Fishtown all the more enthralling. Small fish shanties, tugboats, smokehouses, even a dammed waterfall are right in the midst of this town center in Leland. I enjoyed the
Pro Tip: A meal at The Cove comes with beautiful views and some stellar Michigan wines on their wine list.
Visit Cherry Republic
What’s a visit to the Cherry Capital of the world without visiting the famous Cherry Republic shop. Is this a bit touristy but worth it? Yes. The Glen Arbor location includes the store to pick up the best cherry food products, from candies to salsas. A bonus is it also has the Public House restaurant with an often updated menu that showcases cherries. But there’s more! Glen Arbor is also the home o f the Cherry Republic Winery. While I’m not a fruit wine person, the cherry ciders are my absolute favorite. I’ll have to touch base with them to see if they have a wassail to go with their cidery.
Have you spent time in Leelanau County?
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- 9 Best and Unique Things to do in Leelanau County Michigan - June 16
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- A Unique and Luxurious Couples Getaway from Chicago near Lake Geneva - April 19
- I’m A Nationally Published Writer and Other Updates - March 28
- Celebrating Women in Wine on International Women’s Day - March 7
- Eight of the Best Weekend Trips from Chicago - January 27
- Unexpected (and Mostly Free!) Chicagoland Indoor Activities in Winter - December 31
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