A Masterclass of Wines of Burgundy in Chicago

I’ve talked about how I stepped away from wine, travel, and this blog while I was having children. As my children continue to get a little more independent, I’ve found some time for the hobbies that interest me, like gardening and my wine studies. What a treat it was, then, to attend a Vins de Bourgogne, Wines of Burgundy Masterclass recently in Chicago. Taught by master sommelier Marianne Frantz of American Wine School, it was a packed class with standing room only. If there is one thing I’ve learned, you must get to these events early to secure a seat at a table.

What is Climat? No, It’s not Climate!

I’ll be honest: back when I was a baby sommelier, there were some concepts that I struggled to grasp. One was regarding how plots of vineyard growing in different sections of land mere feet from each other could impart major differences on grapes. Now that I’ve been doing this for some time, it makes more sense. It also makes more sense because, as a home gardener, I see this in my real life!

The term used to describe these variabilities in the grape growing region of Burgundy is climat. Climat is a vineyard, growing only one type of grape, that is designated by name to be different than other vineyards in the region. There are hundreds of climat in Burgundy, with 666 alone under a premier cru designation.

Infographic for Wines of Burgundy — Pin Me!

What Accounts for the Incredible Climat Variety in the Region?

As a home gardener, you learn that southern facing exposure is the best way to get your plants to bear fruit and flower. It also means that your grass is getting baked, so you’ll need to keep it well watered. For vignerons of Burgundy, the climat dictates much of the story for their grapes. Climat that is further down on a slope toward flat land gets less sun in the shadow of the peaks, but gets more water runoff. This makes it more fertile! The wines here are also fruitier in taste! Higher up on a slope, the vines are under more stress, and thus more complex. Here there are a higher concentration of Villages, Premier Cru, and Grand Cru. The soil in the region is a mix of marl, clay, and limestone, all components in making wine suitable for aging. Wines in the region are expected to age five to ten years with no problems.

Labeling and Appellations for Wines of Burgundy

Labels on Wines of Burgundy from Masterclass — Various Labels of Wines featured in the Wines of Burgundy Masterclass.

One of the topics discussed in the seminar was why are some appellations in the wines of Burgundy are much more recognizable than others. The renown of appellations like Gevery-Chambertin and Pouilly-Fuisse can be boiled down to marketing. These appellations represented grand swathes of vineyards, but when the appellation d’origine contrôlée system was established in 1935, the areas that kept the original names were instantly more renown. So, while some regions may be new to you, they are simply behind in name recognition, not quality. Additionally, further narrowing of the wines into Premier Cru and Grand Cru designations were a way for the French to protect some of their best wines from German occupation during World War II. This is one of the topics I learned way back when at the War and Wine class offered by The Chopping Block.

While you may have to become a French Wine Scholar to know all the climat, the five wine producing regions that will help you recognize wines of Burgundy when you see them are:

Chablis (with the inclusion of Grand Auxerrois, and Châtillonnais)
Côte de Nuits
Côte de Beaune
Côte Chalonnaise (with the inclusion of Couchois)
Mâconnais

Two Facts I’ll Never Forget about Vins de Bourgogne

Wine Lineup and Handouts for Wines of Burgundy

Right before the pandemic, I signed up for a French Wine Scholar program. Unfortunately, the school I enrolled through did not ever get it together to teach an online program, so it was cancelled. I recall other mentors in wine telling me how difficult it gets in terms of complexities. So, when two interesting facts are shared independent of a workbook, I will remember them! What are they?

Beaujolais is not considered part of Burgundy! That’s not what my WSET Level 2 book from early a decade says, nor is it what ChatGPT told me. I get the impression there is a nuanced answer here.
Mâcon was never occupied by the Germans! While the other AOC of Burgundy were part of the Occupied Zone, the Mâconnais was spared.

Do you think Beaujolais should be considered part of Burgundy? Let me know in the comments!

Many thanks to Vins de Bourgogne for hosting this wine event.